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The tricks that follow should work in nearly
any country in the world. Though the currency
standards may be different . . . the strategies
you'll learn here . . . SHOULD work anywhere on
ANY drumset, from the cheapest to the most
HOW TO FORCE ANY DEALER
INTO OFFERING 30% (OR MORE)
IN DISCOUNTS . . .
It's much easier to do, than you may think! My
'secret formula' is explained in minute-detail below . . .
Read this valuable message VERY carefully!
NOTE . . .
The mark-up on ALL music-instruments is usually
50% or better. This means that your dealer will
be obtaining our hypothetical ($2000) drumset for about
$1000 plus shipping. That's the DEALERS cost.
Keep this crucial fact in mind!
QUESTION . . .?
HOW MUCH PROFIT, IS A 'FAIR' PROFIT FOR THE DEALER?
YOU, can decide and CONTROL this, once you know how
to do it!
That's the GOOD news!
PART I, OF THE FORMULA . . .
VERY IMPORTANT . . .
- 1. Decide on a VERY SPECIFIC set up . . .
- 2. Obtain the manufacturers 'suggested list
price' from the manufacturers catalogs . . .
(including cymbals, throne and other accessories.)
- 3. Slice 30% off that TOTAL list-price and refuse
to pay any more than that!
- 4. Price the exact same setup with SEVERAL dealers
until one dealer offers the BEST possible quote on
that SPECIFIC setup. (It is extremely possible
to find many dealers who will dip WELL BELOW the 30%
Cymbals, thrones and OTHER drumset accessories
are ALSO a VERY BIG part of our negotiating process!
We must negotiate EVERYTHING (the EXACT SAME drumset),
with EACH of the various dealers, until we find the
ONE dealer who'll 'settle' for the LEAST PROFIT on OUR
Always compare apples to apples! Don't let the dealer
include (or subtract) extras . . . as a way of confusing you.
Tell them EXACTLY what you want to buy. Check the catalog
prices and do the math beforehand . . . then negotiate
until you find the best deal.
Some dealers may actually be happy with only 10%
profit, if we'll use these additional 'NEXT TIPS' . . .
This 'could' translate to about $900.00 in savings for
you on a drumset that lists for $2,000.00!
PART II AND III, OF THE FORMULA . . .
MORE MONEY-SAVING TIPS . . .
* When we SEE a drumset on the dealers showroom
floor . . . it means the dealer has HIS MONEY invested
in THAT drumset. He'll be wanting all the profit
he can make, off THAT investment . . .
This won't represent the BEST deal for us . . .
BUT . . . If we are willing to pay (at least half)
up-front . . . then wait two or three days for our
shipment to arrive . . . it will mean that our
dealer doesn't really have to invest HIS OWN MONEY!
This is a very big issue for the dealer and it
also means we will get our specific 'color-choice' too!
So . . . there's TWO good reasons for using this
MONEY-SAVING tactic . . .
The dealer will only need to make a free 1-800
phone-call to place our order! Then, he'll use
OUR MONEY to pay for the products! It's a fast,
easy, NO-RISK, quick-profit-sale, for our dealer!
How much PROFIT . . . would YOU need . . . for
making a 5-minute phone call?
Will $100 to $400 profit on our hypothetical $2000
drumset be enough profit?
Wouldn't we ALL love to make $400 bucks for every
phone call (order) we might place? They'll love it too . . .
and they should ALWAYS be MORE THAN WILLING to do it!
ANY DEALER who ISN'T happy with $400 profit on a
$1,400.00 (5-MINUTE) deal may be the WRONG DEALER FOR
(Leave skid-marks as you get out of there . . . FAST!)
HERE'S ANOTHER SPECIAL TIP . . .
* Those who deal in BRAND-NAME musical merchandise
are bound by law to NEVER advertise those brand-names
below a certain price-level (set by the wholesaler.) It's
considered low-balling . . . and it'll possibly cost
them their dealership . . . if they do it.
MANY DEALERS WILL LOWBALL, BUT ONLY IN SECRET!
E-MAIL may often become a SPECIAL way to offer
online dealers the sort of 'secrecy' that'll nudge them
even lower than the prices they are allowed to
advertise! Many may advertise a 30% discount, but
almost none will admit to discounts LOWER than that,
Then again . . . since your order is coming from
outside their local area . . . they may become more inclined
to offer YOU a BETTER deal. It means they aren't competing
IN OTHER WORDS . . . What we see advertised on their
WEB PAGE . . . and what the dealers may actually SELL FOR, may
often be two very amazingly different prices. E-mail can and will
often swing the advantage our way . . . especially if we are
communicating well, and using all the other tips I'm
giving you here . . .
MORE . . . MONEY SAVING TIPS:
* SALESMEN must be paid! If we DEAL DIRECTLY with the
OWNER . . . it can mean even larger savings, because
the owner won't be paying-out commissions to the salesman!
This tip can often help us keep an additional 10% to 20%
of the MONEY in OUR POCKET.
Sometimes, the very small one-man-shop (online or offline),
may be the best place to buy!
* ALSO . . . the SHOWROOM drumset must be assembled,
setup and tuned by SOMEONE for DISPLAY on the showroom
floor. This means the owner will have to pay SOMEONE to
do THAT job. Up goes the price of that particular
drumset again! It's usually a 2-hour job! At $10 per hour,
it COULD mean another $20 to $30 savings, if we are willing
to accept our new drums 'in-the-box', then assemble and
tune them ourselves!
THINK ABOUT THIS!
We NEED to learn how to assemble and tune our own
drumset ANYWAY . . . DON'T WE? ;>)
See the lessons . . . How to Assemble and Tune
Your Drums' . . . if this is a worrisome issue for you.
FINAL POINTS . . .
Brand-name dealerships are usually issued by
manufacturers according to locality. They'll only
allow a limited number of authorized-dealers for
their brand-names in any given local area.
EVERY 'general locality' should have AT LEAST
one dealer for any particular brand-name we may be
If our LOCAL brand-name dealer . . . refuses to budge
from EXORBITANT PRICING . . . it may pay us to visit
a similar dealer within a close, but 'neighboring'
The Yellow Pages of any locality should help you select
specific brand-name dealers in THAT area. A short drive
to a neighboring city could help increase your negotiating
power and possibly help you save 10%, 15% or up to 40%!
WHAT ABOUT THE WEB?
Every dealer (worth his salt), in EVERY LOCALITY
will probably have a web-site these days!
So . . . WHO ARE THE WEBSITE DEALERS?
The web-site dealers are dealers of the same brand-name
products you are seeking . . . but they're music stores
operating OUTSIDE of your local neighborhood area!
They are the 'little local music-stores',
scattered all over the U.S. and rest of the World!
They've ALL become POTENTIAL DEALERS for YOU, now! The WEB
has brought them to your door! All you have to do is find them
on the web . . . then make contact and begin negotiations
It's as simple as doing a specific web-search for the
specific brand-name you may be seeking!
HERE'S A THOUGHT . . .
When we buy locally (here in the U.S.) . . .
we'll often end up paying a state-sales-tax.
* When we buy out-of-state, via the web . . . we may
AVOID that tax, and it might mean an additional savings.
HOWEVER . . . the typical web-page dealer may
legitimately need to consider adding DOUBLE-shipping to THEIR
prices! First the order must be shipped to them . . . then
they will ship it on to you. This negates their position
a little, in a way . . .
Because the above fact 'may' wipe-out the 'saved'
taxes I mentioned in the other tip above . . . (The
EXTRA shipping costs may wipe-out the saved taxes.)
All this tends to level the playing field!
It means neither the Internet dealer nor the brick
& mortar dealer has a major advantage! That's another big
PLUS for us! It means our decision will become a bit
easier to make when all factors have been
taken into account. The BEST price-quote is the
all important factor! That's the BOTTOM-LINE!
SUMMARY . . .
* SHOULD YOU BUY USED DRUMS?
USED DRUMS may be your BEST option.
With a little luck, the drum kit you need, may be
in your neighbors broom closet, or it could be just across
town, taking up precious space in someones garage.
It may be worthwhile for you to make a trip
the nearest large city to you, in search of the best
used bargains. The trick is finding just the right
drumset at just the right price!
I hope to help you do that, here . . .
GENERIC OR BRAND NAME?
* Should you buy low-cost 'generic' drums or should
you go for an expensive brand name?
I'm very strong on the 'generic' entry-level kits
for all BEGINNING students of drums. (Would you buy a Cadillac,
when learning to drive?) After all, that's exactly WHY those
'generic' low cost drumsets are on the market! THEY'RE
MARKETED SPECIFICALLY TO BEGINNING STUDENTS!
"ANY DRUM SET IS BETTER THAN NO DRUM SET! PRICE, IS
THE REAL ISSUE"!
So IF you are a beginner, and IF you aren't expecting
to be on-stage playing for money within the next year or two,
I recommend the lower-priced drums . . .
If I can help you get those drums at the best possible
price, I'll feel like I've done you a real service.
THEN AGAIN . . . if I could help you find an EXPENSIVE
brand name kit at a greatly reduced price . . . that would
be even better!
Part of these decisions will depend on how much you can
currently afford to spend.
FINDING THE 'USED' BARGAINS . . .
* Read the want-ad section of EVERY
NEWSPAPER AND SUBURBAN SHOPPER in your immediate area.
Timing is a major factor. This search may require some
persistence and patience on your part. The BEST times to
find the bargains are February through August, but don't let that
discourage you. There are bargains to be found, year-round, if
you'll read enough want-ads.
Look through last months (old) want-ads first. Look for
individual ads touting 'Drums For Sale'.
Here's why . . .
If the drums did not sell when originally
advertised, the seller may have become discouraged and dropped
the ad after a only a few insertions. That seller may still
have the drumset! This is where the REAL bargains are
found! You will be in a powerful leverage position!
This type of seller will be very anxious to get the drumset out
of his house and may accept any reasonable offer you will submit.
Remember this! The seller is in need of extra cash RIGHT
Your anxious seller wants to go out and buy some
other toy to give or throw away NEXT Spring!
IF THAT DOESN'T PRODUCE RESULTS . . .
ONE MORE TRICK! (Advertise!)
Well . . . I'll assume you have tried all the above
tips and found nothing!
Rats! You must have the luck of the Irish!
ADVERTISE!!!! Yep! You heard me right! Run a small
inexpensive ad in your own suburban-shopper or newspaper! Place
the ad in the 'Wanted' section or the 'Used Musical Instruments'
section of your local paper(s).
Keep your ad simple and to the point!
Announce in your ad that you are in the market
for a used drumset and will pay $XXX.XX for the best
deal you can find.
Buy an answering machine or hire a secretary!
You may need some help.
I will bet my money on this one tip! It usually works :>)
KNOWING A BARGAIN, WHEN YOU SEE IT!
This is a key issue . . .
How will you know when a bargain is really a bargain?
First, remember that there are literally hundreds
of brands out there . . . and each brand will usually come
in varied levels of quality . . .
You'll need to know what qualities to look for . . .
then how to equate the value . . .
There are basically two kinds of drums:
* BRAND NAME . . .
The brand names are/were: Ludwig, Rogers, Premier,
Pearl, Yamaha, Tama, DW, Mapex, Sonar (and a few others).
(Some of these brands have disappeared in recent years,
but you'll still find them as you look for used drums.)
Of course, the brand names are worth more money . . .
* OFF-BRAND . . .
The GENERIC brands are: Sunlite, Adam, TKO, Thor,
Percussion Plus, Pacific, Dixon, Hammer, Argent and MANY
The generic list is almost endless. If you haven't
heard a name before . . . or seen it advertised in the
various media, it's probably a generic name.
SPECIAL NOTE: (Generic is generic!)
Most of these entry-level 'generic' drum PARTS are
manufactured by ONE company in Taiwan, and according to
the word on the street, that company is a subsidiary of Pearl.
The parts for nearly all the generic, low cost, entry-level
drums are (in most cases) made in Taiwan, then shipped
around the world, where the various jobbers and wholesalers
assemble them for shipping to dealers. They add their own names
and logos. They're essentially all the same drums . . . with
a hundred different names.
I'm told by good sources that the low-end, (entry level)
'Pearl Export' and 'Pearl Forum' kits are also made in those
same factories. The only major difference is the 'Pearl'
logo stamped into the metal.
The 'Pearl' logo is worth, and will cost you
approximately $100 extra dollars (or more.)
BE A SHREWD BUYER!
HERE IS HOW!
If you are buying used drums, follow these
- 1. Discover the seller's ORIGINAL PURCHASE PRICE.
Just ask! They will usually volunteer this information. (Be
sure to watch their eyes, . . .)
- 2. Check the drums for broken or missing parts. If
the set is in good condition, then . . .
- 3. Divide the seller's original purchase price by
two. Make your offer a tad below that number and hold firm.
In other words if a drumset sold for $1000 (new) and it is
still in good condition, offer $450.00 or less. Most people
will jump at nearly any cash offer. If they will not go
for it, keep looking.
- 4. Hold firm and DO NOT 'Fall in Love' with the
drumset. If you ARE in love . . . DON'T SHOW IT! Keep
a 'Poker face' to save a bundle!
International copyright secured @ Bill Powelson 1994 all rights reserved.